Casco Viejo, Panama City’s long-ignored old-quarter is undergoing a much-needed renovation. Old mansions are being patched-up, repainted, and reopened as restaurants or shops. Dilapidated colonial-era churches are slowly being restored to their original splendor and sun-burnt tourists in safari hats, khaki attire, and expensive cameras hanging from their necks have started trickling in, giving the local economy a much-needed kick in the pants.
Walking the picturesque streets of this 330 year-old UNESCO designated neighborhood is enough to keep you entertained for at least half a day, but there are also plenty of attractions and museums here in case you want to pack a bit more education and history into your trip.
Take a taxi from your hotel to the Casco Viejo neighborhood, and start your day with a visit to the top-notch Museo del Canal in the Plaza de la Independencia (admission $2) where you can learn a bit about the long and troubled history of the Panama Canal, one of the world’s engineering marvels and Panama’s major claim to fame. Next, make your way over to the delightful and picturesque Plaza Bolivar with its many churches and attractions. Here you can visit the Palacio Bolivar, as well as the UNESCO designated Salon de Bolivar, the Iglesia y Convento de San Francisco de Asis, and the Iglesia de San Felipe, which you’ll have to appreciate from the outside because it only opens about three times a year.
By now, you’re probably hungry. For lunch stop at Manolo Caracol. Love it or hate it, there’s no denying that this funky eatery is one-of-a-kind. It’s not exactly fancy, but after visiting all those churches you might feel right at home with all the religious artwork decorating the walls. This well-known and much-loved Casco Viejo icon is conceptually fascinating: don’t expect a menu; for $15, you’ll be brought 6-12 small courses of whatever the chef feels like serving, which could include anything from Thai salad, chicken rice, or shrimps in garlic sauce, and more.
After a satisfying lunch, head to the Paseo de Esteban Huertas, a lovely walkway atop las Bovedas--stone vaults that served as a Spanish dungeon during the 1700s. Here, you can check out the beautiful hand-crafted molas made by Kuna women and sold for $10-$200 per panel depending on size and quality. Those interested in art won’t want to miss the Museo de Arte Religioso (Admission $1; Avenida A at Calle 3a) a small but lovely art museum boasting an excellent selection of Baroque religious art, or the Iglesia de San Jose, Casco Viejo’s most impressive church, famous for its lovely baroque golden altar. Walk straight down Avenida A towards the Plaza de Herrera to get to the Iglesia de San Jose.
After a day of sight-seeing and museum-hopping, there’s nothing like heading to Ego Bar on the corner of Plaza Bolivar for early drinks and tapas. This ultra trendy, atmospheric bar makes a perfect spot for winding-down and people-watching. If you’re still hungry-and not yet exhausted—make your way over to S’cena in front of the Old Club Union for a delicious, if expensive dinner. This elegant eatery is among the top restaurants in Panama City and serves up delicious seafood and tasty desserts-you can’t miss the banana cream pie. You won’t need to go to far for a night of music and dancing-simply head downstairs to S’cena’s sister operation, Club Platea. If you’re there on a Thursday, Friday, or Saturday, there’s likely to be live music and a fun-loving , laid-back clientele-just be sure to take a cab back to your hotel.
